Eat where the neighbourhood eats.

Expert tip

Book the 6:30pm seating: the kitchen runs the full nine courses at a calmer pace before the second service. €€€€ · approx. €165 per person.

Expert tip

Eat the pastel de nata standing at the counter within 90 seconds of the tray leaving the oven — cinnamon, never sugar. € · approx. €10 per person.

Expert tip

Skip the menu entirely and order the cacio e pepe off the chalkboard — it is made in the wheel only before 9pm. €€ · approx. €30 per person.

Expert tip

Request the cellar table when booking — six seats only, and the sommelier pours Super Tuscans by the half glass. €€€ · approx. €120 per person.

Expert tip

Ask for the back courtyard table — locals book it for the 7pm sunset light and it never appears on the app map. €€ · approx. €35 per person.

Expert tip

Order a Melange with the apple strudel and stay put — a Viennese café seat is yours for hours, no refill pressure. € · approx. €14 per person.

Expert tip

Arrive before 11am on a Thursday. The salt-beef stall runs out by noon and the queue triples after lunch. £ · approx. £18 per person.

Expert tip

The unmarked green door beside the bike rack is the entrance — walk-ins only work before 6pm on weekdays. €€ · approx. €40 per person.

Expert tip

Walk two aisles deeper than the entrance stalls — prices drop by a third and the jamón is cut to order. € · approx. €22 per person.